Dialogue with the Artisan - Dress Shirt Craftsman / PORTER CLASSIC 2025 S/S Catalog "Harunatsu 25"

　PORRTER CLASSIC(hereinafter referred to as PC) ––Thanks to you, our roll-up shirt is celebrating its 10th anniversary. Thank you very much. Today I would like to hear about the time it was made and what it was about making shirts.

Craftsman – Will it become like that already? Thank you very much. Thank you.

PC--How long has it been since you started making shirts?

Craftsman – It's been about 30 years. It's been around 25 years.

PC––What was the trigger for you to start?

Artisan – I was originally in Paris. After graduating from a clothing vocational school over there, I became an assistant to a collection brand. I'm the only assistant in that studio. When it's a busy time, such as before a collection, the number of people increases dramatically. That's how it was. The owner and I were always there, so we would eat together, go walk our dogs, and do anything. This brand is good at tailoring, and made a variety of things, including suits and shirts. One day, the owner showed us a shirt that he ordered from Charve, saying something like, "This must be amazing." If I could touch it, it was amazing! That's it. I had never seen such a beautiful, high-grade fabric before, so I thought it was amazing. It's nice to be able to touch other wool suit fabrics, such as other wool suit fabrics, but I was really drawn to shirt fabrics. So I'm going to make a shirt.

PC--Why were you so attracted to the shirt fabric?

Artisan - The shirt fabric feels so good when you touch it. This feeling that comes into contact with your skin is also a good thing about cotton. When I was working in Paris, I looked at a lot of fabric swatches, and when I flipped through it, I kept touching the wool, and when I started to wear a shirt, my hands felt great. When it comes to jackets, the color and pattern are sometimes more important when choosing, but shirt fabric is simply comfortable, and you can choose from that alone. Intuitively, this feels really good. I'm currently doing it with just a shirt, and that's what made me think about it.

PC––How do you train in shirt making?

Craftsman – I returned to Japan and worked at a factory that sells custom-made shirts. At that time I was sewing it all day. It starts at 8:30 in the morning and until around 10:30 in the evening. Just take a rest for about an hour lunch hour and 15 minutes in the evening. I've been living this life forever. I was taught a lot from my senior craftsmen, and the factory was sewing shirts for politicians and royalty members, so the quality of the technical matters was very high, which was very educational.

PC––PORRTER CLASSICDo you remember the first time you made a shirt?

Craftsman – When the Ginza shop is still in International Arcade, I first talked to Katsu and Reio, and we've been dating since then. It was an organic double gauze shirt. It was a round collar and a large, slender shirt. During the first meeting, I was told by Wild Bunch, a movie that Katsu still talks about today. here(PORRTER CLASSICThere are also posters on the stairs in the Atelier. We asked Katsu and Reio to talk about Wild Bunch a lot. To be honest, I didn't think it was like that, so I was surprised. But it's interesting, it's amazing. I have a vivid memory of this. Even when I was making custom shirts, I was never asked to "make that shirt for a movie." I watched the Wild Bunch right after the meeting, and it's amazing how attention to shirts in that movie is focused on. Something that you can see is different. Even now, there are times when I don't feel like I'm seeing the same thing. He says he's paying attention to this. That was a surprise.

PC--Rollup debuted three years later.

Craftsman – What Katsu said at the time was the same as it was now, but "It's just full, it's wide and big, and the armholes are great. But the length doesn't have to be that long, and I was asked to look at the used clothing and say, "It's a good idea to look something like this." You also mentioned the pockets. "The pockets are also bags. It's big and sturdy, and I can also put paperback books on it.' And, although this hasn't changed since the beginning, I was asked to make the shirt look good and neat details. In this way, they want to make something neat and crafted and make it a bit of a mess when they finally wear it and wash it off. The opposite of normal.

PC––How normally?

Craftsmen – Casual shirts that aim to look sophisticated from the start are sewn lighter. The needle (fine seams) is also larger. However, the roll-up shirt is well-crafted to look like a dress shirt. They also double stitch the stitching, and then put all of that in place. We talked a lot with the sewing factory. First, I said, "What does that mean? "I looked curious. However, I think that now, people are enjoying the fun and luxuriousness of wearing and enjoying the so-called high-end shirt tailoring in their daily lives.

PC––That's a great thing. It's a great thing to be able to work together to try and create something new.

Craftsmen – There were a lot of things at first. When I sent the pattern, I was immediately contacted and told me, "I think the pattern is somehow weird." "It's very wide and short in length. Is the armholes so big, is it okay? The pockets are big and the mounting position is too low? "and. It's right. That said, "Is this really true? "I remember going back and forth two and three times. That was strange. "What kind of person would wear such a large shirt? '.

PC--That was the case 10 years ago. I don't think there was a shirt like this in the world.

Craftsmen – At the time, the silhouettes and styles of the world were still tighter. It was a time when thinner than larger ones were cooler. Nowadays, shirts with large silhouettes have appeared, and it seems to have become a style.

PC––That's interesting. Has anything changed in the next 10 years?

Craftsman – At first, there were darts on the back and cuffs, but a few years later the number of gathered types increased. Katsu said he wanted to put plenty of his favorite gathers on his back, so he made it. Other than that, it has actually not changed anywhere. There have been an increase in the number of shirts with large silhouettes in the world, and I sometimes thought it might be a good idea to change them a little, but it hasn't changed. Rather, there was no need to change it. The collar is not too small or too large, so it's a pretty exquisite size. Collars are likely to appear in times, so have you ever thought that old shirts are too big? Of course, it's fine if you like that, but sometimes you may find yourself thinking that it's a bit of a stretch to wear right now. But the rollup came in the same way for 10 years. In that sense, the balance between roll-ups is amazing. As expected of Katsu-san, I still think that it's amazing that he made that good back then. I've created a new standard. And again, over the past few years, the world has been changing more and more to a larger silhouette, and once the world has caught up, I've been bringing out an even bigger size. I think it's great that they just added XXXL (Triple XL).

*This manuscript is an excerpt from the PORTER CLASSIC 2025 S/S catalog "Harunatsu 25".

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